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Fyodor Golan-要创意还是要利益?

时间:2018-01-01来源: 作者:admin点击:
FyodorGolan-要创意还是要利益?FyodorGolan一提起大与小,我们一定会想到RoaldDahl的经典作品Matilda,小说主人公的父亲因自恃年长、身材魁梧而盛气凌人,他一味否定女儿眼中的正义,觉得她一无所知,无论做什么都是错的。WhenwethinkofbigVssmall,wet

Fyodor Golan-要创意还是要利益?

Fyodor Golan

提起大与小,我们一定会想到Roald Dahl的经典作品Matilda,小说主人公的父亲因自恃年长、身材魁梧而盛气凌人,他一味否定女儿眼中的正义,觉得她一无所知,无论做什么都是错的。

When we think of big Vs small, we think of Roald Dahl’s marvellous creation, Matilda, where she confronts her crook like father making her feel inadequate and belittles any sense of righteousness she feels, as though because she is smaller in size and younger in age to him, she is wrong and knows nothing.

“我是对的,你是错的,我是大人,你是小孩,你能拿我怎么办。” ― Roald Dahl, Matilda

“I'm right and you're wrong, I'm big and you're small, and there's nothing you can do about it.”― Roald Dahl, Matilda

Moschino的2018春夏系列与3年前 Fyodor Golan推出的《小马宝莉》(My Little Pony)系列如出一辙。并不是说要否定在原创基础上的翻新,毕竟灵感来源于方方面面,追根溯源都是别人的成果,但问题是大家居然都没发现。

Moschino’s ss18 collection sees a repeat of what Fyodor Golan did three years ago when they teamed up with My Little Pony. Not saying that a repeat or a revamp of an original idea is wrong, after all we are all inspired by different ideas and often those belonging to others, but questioning how this has gone unnoticed.

Fyodord Golan

Moschino采用《小马宝莉》的做法还被打上了原创的标签,各大头条都是“Moschino引领《小马宝莉》走上高街时尚”。也许只有少数人才知道该合作系列早在2015年秋冬时装周上就被Fyodor Golan秀过了……非常相似甚至可以说是一模一样了。

Moschino’s decision to use My Little Pony has been labelled as ingenuous with tabloids stating ‘Moschino has just made ‘My Little Pony’ high fashion’ . Only a few may be aware that this very collaboration was done in AW15 by Fyodor Golan… a very similar almost identical one.

Fyodor Golan的创意作品迅速变为Moschino的敛财法宝,对于时尚界来说这很正常,也可以理解为“适者生存”,零售巨头需要模仿那些新鲜有趣的创意,来保持竞争力、拉动销量。再扯远点,很多像Forever21, H&M这样的快时尚零售巨头,每年都会预存几百万的备用金,因为他们知道抄袭其他设计师的作品很可能就会吃官司,然而就算被起诉,赔的钱也远远低于抄袭后赚来的盈利。

Indeed, Fyodor Golan’s creative originality quickly turns into Moschino’s commercial gain, this is a very common thing in this industry, also interpreted as “survival of the fittest” where retail branded giants are in need of copying strong and fresh creative souls in order to remain on top whilst continuing to drive sales. To go further, many fast fashion retail giants such as Forever21, H&M, etc. even have a yearly budget stashed away as they know they’ll probably get sued several millions for copying other designers, however the potential return on investment for that copied item may well out way the small costs of getting sued by these companies.

The Marginalist and Fyodor Golan- SFW

MEET FYODORD GOLAN

最近,我们有幸采访到了Fyodor Golan的鬼马设计师Fyodor Podgorny和Golan Frydman,当被问到如何看待Jeremy Scott(Moschino创意总监)抄袭了他们My Little Pony的创意时,他俩谦虚地一笑而过。虽说这个问题没有得到正面的回应,但我们还是很愉快地谈论了其他关于商务、时尚和生活方式的话题。

We recently interviewed Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, the fabulous duo that make Fyodor Golan, and when asked what their thoughts were on Jeremy Scott copying their My Little Pony idea, they both laughed and humbly did not comment on the matter. Fair to say our question remains unanswered, but it was definitely a lovely time with the pair discussing all things business, fashion, and lifestyle.

跨界合作的艺术

THE

ART

OF COLLABORATION

那是一个雨天的午后,我们约在外滩边一座古老的建筑物里,他俩耐心地坐在里面等我们,刚一见面,就被他俩的热情所感染。这对鬼马组合就像是邻家大男孩,带给我们温暖舒心的感觉,避免了Q&A环节可能遇到的所有尴尬。

Sat patiently waiting for us to arrive, in a historical building by the bund on a wet and rainy afternoon, Fyodor and Golan were an absolute pleasure from the moment we met. The quirky pair dressed like the boys next door created a comforting environment, taking away any awkwardness a Q&A sessions can bring.

这两位时尚大师因携手诺基亚、微软、《变形金刚》、《小马宝莉》、《飞天小女警》、可口可乐等知名品牌而为人所熟知,那么这些别出心裁的创意从何而来呢,不妨跟随我们了解一下品牌的成长史吧!

The fashion heroes are well known for collaborating many iconic household brands such as Nokia, Microsoft, Transformers, My Little Pony, Power Puff Girls, and Coca Cola, and when asked how this had taken place, we were in for a real wave of how the brand grew to be who they are today.

一切都源于3年前的某个工作日,设计师忽然茅塞顿开,觉得与《小马宝莉》合作一定很惊艳!第二天一早,他俩就联系上《小马宝莉》的负责人,对方也是欣喜若狂,剩下的自然交给时间去解决啦。事实证明此次合作取得了巨大成功,他们的服装在Selfridges百货、Harvey Nichols百货以及Luisa Via Roma电商上都有热卖。

It so happened that 3 years ago, whilst designing a collection it dawned upon them that a collaboration with My Little Pony would be AmAzing. Following morning, they picked up the phone and called through to My Little Pony who were ecstatic with the news, and the rest is history. It proved a huge success, stocked in Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Luisa Via Roma etc.

不久,《变形金刚》工作组就找上门来。

Soon after they were approached by Transformers.

FG X Transformers

“从小我就是《小马宝莉》的忠实粉丝”,Golan自豪地大声说道,“Fyodor恰好是《变形金刚》的忠实粉丝。”

“As a child, I was a massive fan of My Little Pony’ said Golan loud and proud, and ‘Fyodor was a massive fan of Transformers.”

“自那以后,一切都变得顺理成章,可口可乐也想和我们合作!”

“After this, everything just snowboarded, Coca cola wanted to work with us!”

FG X CocaCola

FG X PowerPuff Girls

之所以和《飞天小女警》合作,是受到毛毛那集“才不是小公主”的启发,它诠释了女性的力量,打破了性别歧视。该系列发布当天恰逢美国女权运动,可以说在完美的时机下产生了深远的影响。

Their collaboration with the Power Puff Girls was motivated by the episode Buttercup, ‘Don’t call me Princess’, screaming female empowerment and putting an end to gender discrimination. The collab was launched during the Women’s march in America making the timing and impact all the more poignant.

SFW

“这是我们第一次被中国市场看中,大家都争先恐后地邀请我们参展,简直酷毙了!”他们兴奋地嚷嚷。自上一次抛开工作来上海放飞自我的假期,没过几个月,他们再次来到这个兼收并蓄的城市,这一次,他们将受邀参加上海时装周。

‘The first season we were discovered in China, everyone was fighting over who could have us, it was so invigorating!’ they both exclaimed. After a quick holiday to enjoy the city without any business involved, they then entered Shanghai Fashion Week a few months later for their first visit to the eclectic city.

FG X Post It

他们的2018春夏系列是与珍宝珠棒棒糖合作的,该合作自2017秋冬开始直至2018春夏结束。

Their SS18 collection brings a collaborating with Chupa Chups, and combine works from AW17 and SS17.

FG X Chupa Chups

“不同于欧洲,中国市场倡导个性化,大家愿意同其他品牌合作,这是欧洲市场所欠缺的,”他们满脸崇拜地说道。“没有人非黑即白,我们希望对方不要害怕将柔美与刚毅相结合,尽情表达自我就好。”

“Unlike Europe, the Chinese market is not afraid to personalise and mix their collection with other brands, something quite unheard of in Europe” they both explained in admiration. ‘No one is just 2 dimensional, we need people that are not afraid to mix a little romance with something extremely masculine, so express yourself.’

Rihanna in FG for Samsung

你也许听说过工作与生活不能混为一谈,但能完美处理好工作与生活关系的非Fyodor Golan莫属啦。

You may have heard the term work life balance been thrown about, but one couple far away from this equilibrium are Fyodor Golan.

既是工作伙伴,又是人生伴侣,有时候就很难分清工作与生活的界限,从一起床就谈正事,工作时也说正事,到晚饭时还聊正事,难免会有磕磕碰碰,严重时就互不理睬,几天后又会和好如初。

Working together as partners, and living together as romantic ones, sometimes it can be hard to know where your personal life ends and where professional work begins, they wake up speaking business, talk business at work and then continue to talk about business around the dining table, it is inevitable that arguments will occur, often big enough that they go their separate ways and then reconcile hours or days later.

其实,他俩在寻找创作灵感方面还是挺保守的,对于展会爱好者来说,生活在伦敦是再好不过啦。他们很喜欢去电影院,通过电影来激发创作灵感。“我是拉脱维亚人,Golan是以色列人,我们来自于不同的文化背景,所以很多时候我们会将这些差异融合到作品中。”

It was clear to see that they are quite old school when finding inspirations for their collections, lovers of exhibitions which living in London is a great way to explore ideas. They also enjoy the cinema, and films are a huge driver behind their thoughts, and help provoke ideas. ‘I am Latvian and Golan is from Israel’ said Fyodor, ‘we both come from different backgrounds so politically our ideas will often blend together too’.

生活中的一切都能让他们迸发出灵感的火花,但多数情况下还是来源于展会、电影和文化背景,最重要的是,他们能够正确认识自己的价值,且拥有无限探索的欲望。

There is not anything that will not inspire them but most of it comes from exhibitions, films, cultural backgrounds and most importantly valuing an individual for who they are, and always being curious to find out more.

“如何用3个词形容你们的品牌?”“那肯定是善于表达、色彩缤纷和浪漫数码。”“什么是浪漫数码?”

‘What three words describe your brand? ‘.. ‘Definitely expressive, rainbow and digital romanticism. ‘.. ‘What is digital romanticism?

“这个词是我们造的,因为我们的品牌和客户都很有数码特色。数码色彩、数码面料,同时又不失浪漫风情。我们的客户都是很好沟通、现代感十足又拥有多元文化的,他们愿意保护地球并关心小动物。”

It’s a term we invented because we and our clients are very digital. The colours are digital, and the materials are too, but there’s also romanticism. It is someone very connected, modern but very cultural, who wants to preserve the world and look after animals.’

THE LIFESTYLE

和大家一样,我们也很好奇Fyodor Golan的幕后生活是怎样的,是不是像绝大多数设计师一样铺张浪费,是否在奢华的伦敦有私人豪车接送?

As most of us are curious of what happens behind the scenes, we wanted to know more about Fyodor Golan’s lifestyle, is it as lavish as stereotyped for all designers, living in luxury London with a private chauffeur to take them around?

然而事实让人大跌眼镜!他们拍着胸脯说自己拥有健康的生活方式,每天步行到工作室,多喝水,多吃新鲜果蔬。避免铺张浪费,尽可能保护环境对于他们来说很重要,他们已经拒绝使用动物皮草,并将慢慢减少皮革的使用率。

The truth seemed to be far from this! They ensure they have a healthy and balanced lifestyle by walking to their studio as well as drinking and eating fresh produce. It is important to them they do not over consume, and be environmentally friendly where possible, they’ve stopped working with fur and are now cutting out leather slowly from their designs.

他们的公寓几乎是自己一手打造的。Fyodor骄傲地说起自己是如何一步步制作书架和餐桌的,家里的镜子又是如何从古玩店淘回来的,如此看来,Fyodor的家具成衣系列是不是快诞生了?

The apartment has mostly been built up by them; Fyodor proudly described how he built the bookshelf and dining table from scratch, and the mirror was from an antique store. Seems like Fyodor may have a furniture collection coming out soon?

“我就不行,家里乱糟糟的和闹哄哄的声音会把我逼疯的”,Golan笑着说。

‘I hope not, I would go crazy from all the mess and noise it brings’, laughed Golan.

两人在伦敦的钟爱之地:

The couples’ fave spots in London are:

· Curzon cinema

· Padella- Italian restaurant

· Hampstead Heath Park

· Wallice collection

· Selfridges

· Somerset house

我们的采访起初从两个话题进行展开:是否可以因商业利益而窃取他人创意,以及行业地位或全球化能力是否影响着品牌的话语权。通过与Fyodor和Golan的谈话,你会发现他们真的热爱这份职业,那些天马行空的作品得到了消费者的肯定,带给他们的便是满满的成就感。

Our interview started off exploring if one’s creativity is being used for another’s commercial gain, and whether it has anything to do with your presence in the industry and ability to globalise. It seems evident from speaking with Fyodor and Golan that they enjoy what they do, and they do it because they feel a sense of achievement and pride from creating imaginative collections to be experimented with by people.

不管怎么说,真正的时尚达人一看就能看出谁才是引领《小马宝莉》走上高街时尚的开拓者。

Real fashion enthusiasts know who really made My Little Pony ‘high fashion’ first.

撰文:Abithaa Santhiramathavan 编辑:Yanie Durocher

Photo Source/图片来源:Fyodor Golan的Instagram晒图, Hunger TV,

伦敦时装周

Article is original and created by Abithaa Santhiramathavan, edited by Yanie Durocher

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